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Cypriol/Nagarmotha(Cyperus scariosus, C. rotundus) in Perfumery

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Cypriol/Nagarmotha(Cyperus scariosus, Cyperus rotundus) in Ayurveda

Cypriol/Nagarmotha(Cyperus scariosus, Cyperus rotundus) in Aromatherapy

Elemi(Canariaum commune, C. luzonicum) in Perfumery

White Pepper(Piper nigrum) CO2 select extract/Madagascar

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White Pepper CO2 is extracted from the peppercorns of Piper nigrum from which the outer husks have been removed by slow soaking in water. It is rarely extracted using co2 as the extra step of removing the outer husks is time consuming and expensive.

White Pepper CO2 is a light yellow colored liquid displaying a distinct  warm, powdery, spicy bouquet with a green, woody, animalic  undertone

In natural perfumery it is used in spice accords, colognes, culinary perfumes, amber bases, musk accords

Sandalwood, Australian(Santalum spicaturm) CO2 select extract

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The CO2 extract of Australian Sandalwood(Santlum spicatum) extracted from the heartwood is a golden yellow viscous liquid displaying a  soft, sweet, subtle but rich, precious woods bouquet with a  nutty, creamy, balsamic undertone

Its use in natural perfumery is wide ranging as it can be used as a fixative in high class florals,
amber bases, chypre, fougere, musk accords, precious woods notes, incense bouquets, sacred perfumes

Narcissus poeticus in Perfumery

Jonquil(Narcissus jonquilla) in Perfumery


Sweet Amber Melange

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Sweet Amber Melange is a blend of natural essences obtained from vanilla, ambrette seed, nagarmotha, labdanum and several other select botanicals. It is amber colored viscous liquid displaying a wonderfu l rich, honeyed, resinous/balsamic bouquet with a deep precious woods undertone of fine tenacity.

As mentioned in an earlier blog on Ambergris, there has been and probably always will be some confusion as regards to the essences of ambergris and amber. Ambergris is a product obtained from whales and seldom appears in the perfu mery market. Its olfactory qualities vary somewhat depending on the age of material and other factors(more can be read in the ambergris blog-http://www.whitelotusblog.com/2013/12/ambergris-botanical-melangeblend.html) Amber as it exists in the perfume world is almost entirely a fantasy creation based on sweet resinous and balsamic  materials su ch as benzoin, vanilla, ambrette, beeswax etc at the core with many other essences being added to create different effects. A true amber oil does exist but in actual fact its olfactory characteristics are much in the line of cade and birch tar ie smoky, phenolic, tar-like, camphoraceous.

One can never say precisely how the sweet versions of amber evolved but perhaps the visual beauty of the amber pieces inspired perfumers to create an essence that portrayed its beautiful ,rich colors.
Be that as it may sweet amber perfumes can be essences of great olfactory beauty.

Perfumery Notes on Amber and Ambergris

Incense in Ancient China

Article 2

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Cherry Blossoms Japan
Cherry Blossoms in Japan
Leora B. Lobdell  
No matter how extravagantly the books describe or the pictures portray the cherry blossoms, just believe every shade and tone of it, for it is all beautifully true. This warm April morning has proved how wonderful Japan can be in a rain storm when the cherry blossoms are at their best.
At seven this morning I walked up and down the porch to drink deep the fragrance of it all. There was the spacious garden, bordered by the bamboo hedge, just beyond the narrow street, and on the other side the high fence of our Japanese neighbor. Not a base ball fence, by any means, but a ten-foot fence of neatly woven bamboo topped by a luxuriance of glistening foliage.
An old woman, in a limp kimona, towelled head and bare feet, paddled through the mud bearing a big basket on her back. She was wrinkled and dirty, bent and burdened, but the dainty white cauliflower, with its fresh green leaves peeping above the basket's rim, proved that age and humble condition had not separated the old woman from nature's works of true art.
Just then a young woman came clicking along on her wooden shoes, which lifted her kimona free from the muddy street. Her clean, pretty gray kimona with its bright red sah, her big yellow and black umbrella and her erect figure, showed the brighter side of life in Japan. And how the blossoms greeted them both!
For high over the street, in the warm, bright rain, the cherry blossoms were nodding. They were baby blossoms, pink and frail, cuddling and nodding on the swaying boughs, gracefully greeting their neighboring buds as the rain and the breeze tossed them hither and thither. They seemed to know that the dull gray trees had been lonely a long, long time, so they blush and nod and smile away in the glistening drops of rain, as if to assure all nature that they have a joyous message, that they come to brighten and to bless.
And they are all about us—everywhere. Just behind our house, at the foot of the mountain, is a park full of tiny t?a houses, miniature lakes, splendid old temples and stately pines. Against the magnificent background made by the pine trees are masses of pink cherry blossoms. "Exquisite" is the only word that describes them, and even that is meanly poor, because they have a gracefulness, a color and a daintiness peculiarly their own. All Shidzuoka, and indeed all Japan, is rosy pink just now-masses of bloom greet us on every hand. We do not exclaim; we take them as Heaven's gift to Japan. And such they really are.

Meadows of the Brandywine- John Russel Hayes

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 Meadows of the Brandywine- John Russel Hayes

O, MEMORY, call back the hours
Of childhood's day among the flowers
That grew in gardens sweet and old
Beneath those skies of misty gold
That made the summers seem divine
In meadows by the Brandywine!

Call back the breezes warm and sweet
That drowsed across the yellow wheat
And made the sylvan valleys ring
With music light as dryads sing,
With music faint and faery-fine,
In meadows by the Brandywine!

Dear Memory, call back again
The soft and silver wraiths of rain
That bent the buttercups, and swayed
The sleepy clover-heads, and made
The hosts of dancing daisies shine
In meadows by the Brandywine!

Call back, the glow-worm's elfin fire
That wavered where the marshy choir
Made reedy music ghostly-light
Across the fragrance of the night,
Till lucent stars began to shine
 
O'er meadows by the Brandywine!
0 far, sweet hours, what strange regret
Brings tears for you to-night, while yet
1 would not have your magic be  
More than a dreama dreamto me,  
A dream of vanished hours divine
In meadows by the Brandywine!

Fragrance of Azahar-Rowland Thirlmere

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The country between Benifayo and Algemesi, which I last saw on a tempestuous November day, literally submerged in a riot of tumbling red waters, surprised us with its opulence. The rich and friable soil is of a fine Indian red, and appears to be capable of producing magnificent fruits and people with equal ease. Its oranges are splendid. Several times we alighted to buy them. The poignant scent of the orange blossom made us hungry for more. It seemed so good to be feeding on the product of flowers that exhaled such sweetness! There was no fear of death in that odour. The smell of ethereal sherry in a bodega first exhilarates, then depresses, and, all conditions being favourable, ultimately kills. Hyacinths in a closed room may subtly slay; the perfume of almond oil may be fatal. Pope Alexander and the other infamous Borgias may have used these poisonous scents, but they could never kill their victims with the orange-flower. Were it possible to die from the inhalation of this fragrance, that is the death I would choose. "Slain by the scent of the azahar"would make a most original verdict for a coroner's jury.

There had been heavy rain,, and the splendid masses of larkspur in the park were somewhat bedraggled, and splashed with mud. The continual breath of roses made the air heavy and relaxing; whilst the still more penetrating odour of the orange blossoms sweetened the atmosphere so much that one's mind became full of an indescribable imaginative tumult, and one's senses seemed to faint in a riot of recollections and anticipations. The quintessential fragrance of old romance pulsed through the delicious air; for the exquisitely fragrant petals of the azahar flowers were drying in the intermittent bursts of sunlight, and, to my mind, there is no bloom in this glorious world with so powerful and so poignant a sweetness as that possessed by the bridal orange-blossom—the azahar of the Moors.

Sandalwood/Santalum album Indonesia

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Sandalwood oil from Indonesia is distilled from the same species(Santalum album) as grows in South India. Sandalwood trees have grown in Indonesia for many centuries and the quality of the oil when well distilled is of equal quality to the best South Indian sandalwood.

The current batch of Indonesian distilled Sandalwood is a pale yellow slightly viscous liquid with a true, deep, rich,  precious woods bouquet, with a soft, sweet, balsamic undertone of fine tenacity.
It is as fine as any sandalwood we have been able to procure in recent years including oil that we use to source directly from the Tamil Nadu Forest Service distillery in South India which we visited many years ago.

Its application in natural perfumery is diverse as sandalwood is first and foremost an excellent fixative that works with most perfume compositions. It is used in high class florals, Oriental bouquets, incense notes, sacred perfumes, fougere, chypres, amber bases, precious woods accords.
It is also outstanding as a single note perfume being a perfect embodiment of the  precious woods complex.

Saffron Spice Melange

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Saffron Spice Melange is an reddish orange transparent liquid with a unique, rich, dry, earthy, spicy, herbaceous bouquet with a lovely sweet, floral, herbaceous undertone. The blend includes of saffron co2, black pepper eo, cinnamon bark eo, nutmeg eo, cardamom eo, clove eo, vanilla absolute, etc

In natural perfumery it is used in spice accords, culinary perfumes, incense bouquets, colognes, high class florals, sacred perfumes.

Perfumery Notes on Amber and Ambergris

Ambergris Botanical Melange(Blend)

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 Ambergris Melange(Botanical) has been created for us using ambrette seed absolute, oakmoss absolute, labdanum absolute, clarys sage essential oil, nagarmotha and several other natural essences. It is a amber colored liquid displaying a warm, suave, powdery, sweet, resinous-balsamic bouquet of a delicate marine, mossy  undertone of excellent tenacity.

In natural perfumery it is a prized fixative in delicate florals, musk bases, amber accords, herbal accords, forest notes, Oriental perfumes


In perfumery terminology the words "amber" and "ambergris" are often confused. Both are, in fact, terms which are almost always used for perfumery "notes" rather then a product extracted or distilled from amber resin or from ambergris which is produced from sperm whales. That is to say, they are blends of different essences, both natural and synthetic, to create products which are, in a general way, associated with the words  "amber" and "ambergris".

Of the two, amber essence is, by far, the more well known of the two. In natural perfumery it can be as simple a combination as vanilla absolute/co2, ambrette seed eo/co2/absolute and labdanum or more complex blends which include benzoin, frankincense, myrrh, tonka bean, patchouli, etc. Its basic olfactory qu alities are deep, sweet,  musky, resinous. True extracts and distillations of amber resin do exist but tend to be dominated by smoky, phenolic notes with an faint sweet resinous undertone.

Ambergris, on the other hand, is now almost entirely produced as blends of synthetic isolates which are thought to mimic the aroma of ambergris produced by sperm whales. Those products are  "interpretations" of the aroma of true ambergris as the genuine product is highly variable. In general a fine quality genuine ambergris tincture is said to contain these olfactory properties-

"Its odor is rather subtle, reminiscent of seaweed, wood, moss. with a peculiar sweet, yet very dry undertone of unequaled tenacity. There is rarely any animal note at all in a good grade of Ambra(Ambergris)"- Steffen Arctander

Fine ambergris accords can be created using totally natural materials which may include labdanum, sage clary, agarwood, seaweed abs, ambrette seed, cedarwood, oakmoss etc.


In perfumery terminology the words "amber" and "ambergris" are often confused. Both are, in fact, terms which are almost always used for perfumery "notes" rather then a product extracted or distilled from amber resin or from ambergris which is produced from sperm whales. That is to say, they are blends of different essences, both natural and synthetic, to create products which are, in a general way, associated with the words  "amber" and "ambergris".

Of the two, amber essence is, by far, the more well known of the two. In natural perfumery it can be as simple a combination as vanilla absolute/co2, ambrette seed eo/co2/absolute and labdanum or more complex blends which include benzoin, frankincense, myrrh, tonka bean, patchouli, etc. Its basic olfactory qu alities are deep, sweet,  musky, resinous. True extracts and distillations of amber resin do exist but tend to be dominated by smoky, phenolic notes with an faint sweet resinous undertone.

Ambergris, on the other hand, is now almost entirely produced as blends of synthetic isolates which are thought to mimic the aroma of ambergris produced by sperm whales. Those products are  "interpretations" of the aroma of true ambergris as the genuine product is highly variable. In general a fine quality genuine ambergris tincture is said to contain these olfactory properties-

"Its odor is rather subtle, reminiscent of seaweed, wood, moss. with a peculiar sweet, yet very dry undertone of unequaled tenacity. There is rarely any animal note at all in a good grade of Ambra(Ambergris)"- Steffen Arctander

Fine ambergris accords can be created using totally natural materials which may include labdanum, sage clary, agarwood, seaweed abs, ambrette seed, cedarwood, oakmoss etc.

Benzoin Links

Ambrette Links

Individual Perfume Notes

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